The capital of Sikkim, Gangtok (which means 'hilltop'), sprawls down the west
side of a long ridge
flanking the Ranipul River. The scenery is spectacular and there are excellent
views of the entire Kanchenjunga Range from many points in the environs of the
city.
Many people expect Gangtok to be a smaller version of Kathmandu. It's not, but
it is not a bad place to spend a couple of days. Gangtok only became the capital
in the mid-19th century (previous capitals were at Yuksom and Rabdentse) and
the town has undergone a rapid and rather unattractive modernisation in recent
years.
Gangtok has also become something of a hill station resort for holidaying
Bengalis. The influx peaks during the 10-day Durga Puja holiday period at
the end of September or early October, when Bengalis converge on the town
en masse to enjoy the fresh air and cheap booze.
City Getaways
The Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre (Monastery) is a prominent and striking structure
visible from Gangtok, though it is 24 km away (about 45 mins by road). It is
the seat of the Kagyu Buddhist order and a visit is a must to see the remarkable
murals, religious art objects and the young monks go about their training. (Open
from 8 am to 5 pm in summer and 10 am to 5 pm in winter).
Some 38 km north of Gangtok in a rarely visited region lies Phodong and the
Labrang Gompa (Tibeto-Buddhist monasteries), one of the six most important
in Sikkim. Though smaller than the one at Rumtek, this one has a unique architecture
and well worth a visit for the splendid views into the valley below.
For a truly unforgettable experience, visit the sacred and serene Changu
Lake (3780 m, 12400 ft). To get there, travel 40 km eastwards of Gangtok,
along a narrow road that snakes precariously along steep mountainsides. The
lake remains frozen for the greater part of the year and comes alive during
May to August when rhododendrons, iris, primulas and poppies burst into bloom
on its banks and on the adjoining hill slopes.
North Sikkim
With bleak and barren mountain peaks, this is the land of the nomadic Yak herdsmen.
All tourists require a Permit to visit North Sikkim.
Do not miss the opportunity to visit the remote and spectacular Yumthang
Valley (11,800ft) in this region, 140 km from Gangtok. In May, the hillside
here erupts in fiery colours of the rhododendrons purple, red, white,
yellow, pinks. For a 3-day Alpine Package Tour to this fascinating
place, contact the Tourist Department at Gangtok.
Enroute, Singhik offers a magnificent view of the entire Kanchenjunga range.
Further on is Chungthang, a predominantly Lepcha region at the source of the
Teesta River. Spend a night at the quaint Lachung village, just 25 km short
of Yumthang, where the residents have retained their unique traditional way
of life and are governed by the village zumsa.
West Sikkim
The main attraction in this region is the exciting trekking trails, including
the Kanchenjunga trek that goes to Dzongri at the foot of the peak. The other
major points of interest here are the monasteries at Pemayangtse and Tashiding.
Enroute from Gangtok to Pelling (112km) are transit points at Singtam, Rabangla
and Legship. The Pemayangtse Monastery, one of Sikkims holiest and the
second oldest is just 3 km from here. It belongs to the Nyingma-pa order and
is set on a hilltop at 6840 ft, providing excellent views of the countryside.
The striking murals, the model of the heavenly abode of Guru Rimpoche that
is housed here and the ambience of this sacred site justify the long and strenuous
journey.
At a walking distance from the monastery are the Rabdentse ruins, once the
capital of Sikkim, from where you can see the mighty Kanchenjunga across a
deep valley. And some 27 km away is the sacred Khecheopalri Lake, (Tsho-Sho-Tsho
or The Wishing Lake, as the Sikkimese call it), hidden amidst
green forests and surrounded by Buddhist prayer flags. The lake is a popular
trekkers destination. It is said that birds keep the lake clean, even
removing all the leaves that fall on the water.
The Tashiding Monastery (about 30 km from Legship) is set on top of a heart-shaped
hill from where Guru Padmasambhava is said to have blesssed the land of Sikkim
during the 8th century. The monastery was built in the 18th century by one of
the lamas who performed the consecration ceremony of the first Chogyal. An annual
sacred water festival (Bhumchu), held during the first
Tibetan month (around March), attracts thousands of devout pilgrims.
Just 22 km north of Pelling is Yoksum, the first capital of Sikkim and now
the trailhead for trekkers headed to Dzongri and other trekking destinations.
It can also be reached from Khecheopalri Lake on foot along a picturesque
trail (8 km, 3 hours). If you are looking for high adventure and are in good
physical shape, Yoksum would be the base from where you could embark on various
unforgettable treks, including one into the high altitude areas of Sikkim.
For details contact the Adventure Division of Sikkim Tourism or any recognised
travel agency in Gangtok.
In case you choose the Kanchenjunga Trek, which could take you to Goecha
La (4940 m, over 16000 ft), be sure to allow for enough acclimatisation stops
along the way, as your trek takes you to ever higher reaches of this beautiful
land.
South Sikkim
This region, generally at lower altitudes than Western Sikkim, has its own beauty
and charm with a few interesting trekking destinations.
Tendong Hill (8530 ft) is a flat hill feature above Damthang and overlooking
the town of Namchi. The story goes that it saved the Lepchas during the flood
that inundated the world (like in Noahs Ark), and so the Lepchas hold
it in great reverence. You will always remember the stunning views from here
of the plains to the south and snow-clad peaks to the north. Towering higher,
and approached from Ravangla (just 13 km from Damthang), is Menam Hill (10,300
ft) that provides equally spectacular views, not just of the plains on a clear
day, but of the imposing Kanchenjunga, which dwarfs everything around it.
From here you can go on to Borong village with its hot springs.
Further west, some 60 km from Naya Bazar is Hilley, the take off point for
an easy trek (4 km) to the Versey Rhododendron Sanctuary.
By Air
Gangtok is not directly served by air. The closest airport is at Bagdogra, West
Bengal. The 124 km drive to Gangtok takes 5 hours and is facilitated by numerous
taxis, shared jeeps and hired cars with chauffeurs.
By Road
The drive to Gangtok from Siliguri (West Bengal), 114 km away, is the shortest.
Darjeeling, the beautiful and oft-visited hill station in West Bengal is also
connected by road to Gangtok. Taxis, buses and hired cars with drivers ply regularly
on these routes as they inch past the narrow but well maintained mountain roads.
By Train
Gangtok is not on the railway map. The nearest railhead is New Jalpaiguri (West
Bengal), 125km away from Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim. Trains from all the
major cities of India connect to New Jalpaiguri. The drive to Gangtok city takes
about five hours and numerous buses, taxis, shared 4WDs and hired cars with
chauffeurs cover the distance all through the day.